Family farms, vineyards, olives, goat cheese, oysters, donkeys, warm-hearted people, and Dalmatian music in a rural setting. Hills and piques, forest and farms, curvy narrow roads, and hidden bays. And when you climb to st. Ilija (the highest pique of the Pelješac peninsula), you’ll have the whole Adriatic on your palm.

Mike Grgich was born on Pelješac

One of the most influential wine-growers in the 20th century, Miljenko Mike Grgich, originates from Pelješac peninsula, Croatia. At the beginning of the 20th century, he emigrated to the States and everything else that happened afterward is history. Today, his wines can be tasted in Grgich Hills Estate Napa Valley, California. 

Going back to the roots, Grgić Vina was opened by his daughter Violet Grgić in 1996. on the peninsula of Pelješac.

With an astonishing understanding of wines that one can only admire, they focused on the production of mali plavac and pošip. Two authentic Croatian grown vines whose beauty is yet to be discovered by wine-lovers all around the world.

Trstenik winery 

Trstenik is located on the southern side of the peninsula of Pelješac. It’s a peaceful bay dependent on tourism like the vast majority of Dalmatia. Placed on the sailing route from Split to Dubrovnik, in the middle of the way, not far from Korčula. And Korčula is yet another glowing queen in wine-growing.

As you enter the port, on your right (east), you’ll spot Grgich winery standing on a hill, just like a contemporary Greek wine temple illuminated by the sun. During September, sometimes you have to jump over the crates of grapes and barrels that are used for making wine. The smell of grapes is thick in the air, while the lady at the entrance, with a welcoming smile, is leading visitors.

As soon as you enter, there’s an actual-size photo of Mike Grgich. I was surprised by his height. Such a small man with the nicest smile and warmest eyes ever. And after a short few words, pošip is already served, and wine-tasting has started.

The wide window is letting the sun in, and the sparkling sea in the distance unveils the path many Croatian immigrants took in the 19th and 20th centuries. Just like Mike Grgich did. It was a path into new beginnings. Only to come back home after a lifetime of effort. 

Pelješac is wide, long, and rich in diversity

Ston, a small settlement with not even 200 habitants living there the whole year long, is not far away. And it’s definitely a mesmerising sight. Already in the Middle Ages one of the longest preserved fortifying walls in the world was built around Ston. 

If China is too far off to see something truly incredible, go to Ston and admire their achievement that goes five hundred years back.

In the 15th century, Ston played an important role in the development and prosperity of the Dubrovnik Republic. Due to its production of salt, which was considered white gold at the time, Ston made one-third of the Dubrovnik Republic’s yearly income.

Next to the historical value of Ston, in the Mali Ston (Little Ston) oyster farms can be found. And oysters coming from there are considered to be one of the finest oysters in the world.

During organised oyster-farm visits travellers sail off in a wooden boat to these farms. 

Then they can taste oysters directly from the sea. 

As oysters are served, so are glasses filled with homemade wine. After a few oysters, homemade rakija (snaps, l’eau de vie, or grappa), and a glass of wine, the music starts to echo from the boat. Everything else is left to the traveller’s enthusiasm and imagination.

Oysters are an aphrodisiac. So before you go tasting them, feel free to inform your wife/girl/honey/partner/husband/warrior or whoever you’re going with, about oysters tasting, as you are for some wild night afterward.

Family farms are a Croatian version of the nights of Dionysus

Wherever you go in Croatia, locals will always recommend peka. Usually, peka is either with meat or an octopus, but many variations can be discovered all around.

Peka is a way of preparing food. The meal is cooked under an iron bell covered with amber, for around two hours.

Vegetables and meat (or an octopus), are placed together in a round, shallow and wide tray. Olive oil, wine, and different spices or herbs are poured over. Lots of it. Depending on the chef, of course.

And when everything is set, an iron bell is placed over and covered with ember. Then it’s left like that for around two hours, more or less. Only an occasional chef’s peak will disturb the meal’s solitude. If needed a small sip of wine or olive oil is added. And then, the dance of tastes can start.

It’s just delicious. Meat becomes so soft and tender that it slides off a bone and octopus tastes like grilled honey. Of course, wine is served, so the tastes can have a companion while melting in your mouth.

Something similar I came across while I was visiting Morocco. It’s called a tagine. For making a tagine ceramic dishes are used and tagine can also be prepared in a kitchen, on a stove. While the peka asks for open fire and wood. Even though the principle is the same, the results are very different. Just like two different chefs.

The Peninsula of Pelješac is full of family farms. Next to their own production of wine, travellers will find homemade grown food prepared on the spot. While the ambiance varies from a rural one to an elegant restaurant.

Windsurfing brings vines together

The whole length of Croatia’s coastline is perfect for windsurfing, sailing and exploring. Twelve different directions of the wind make the sailing dynamic. Over 1300 islands give a stunning amount of safe ports or shelters for sailing boats. Not to mention breathtaking scenery which we have plenty of.

In the summertime, the western wind called maestral is what all windsurfers are waiting for. And you’ll find it loads between Pelješac and Korčula.

Viganj is a small village located in the southwestern part of the Pelješac peninsula. Just opposite to Korčula, a true jewel of Croatian stone-masonry and wine growing. Viganj is a preferred site of many wind and kite surfers.

In the summertime. Hmmm,.. I would say around 4 pm, it would be perfect. When the sun is a bit mild – or mildish – hop on your surf-board, or in a kayak, or on a boat and let the western wind take you from Viganj to Korčula. 

Just glide in the port, with your glass ready.

And when you get there we’ll sail off together with Korkyra Korčula wine.